In 2018, we worked with iconic designer Andre Walker to provide fabrics for recreations of some of his most iconic styles. Pieces from this collection are part of an important new exhibit on American style at the Met Costume Institute.
According to Artnet News
The exhibition, in the Anna Wintour Costume Center, is based around the concept of a patchwork quilt, with each square representing a feeling that corresponds to the spirit of a particular garment or runway collection. Feelings like warmth and comfort are visualized through a blanket-coat that Andre Walker designed with Pendleton Woolen Mills, paying homage to the Oregon-based company that was founded in 1863, and Oscar de la Renta’s floral-festooned dresses—over the years favored by Taylor Swift and Wintour herself—represent joy and delight.
We are extremely proud to be part of this exhibit!
See more featured designs and read the feature here: Artnet News
Yes, it was Vans, and we’ll tell you a little more about that original collaboration in a bit. But the exciting news? One of our earliest collaborations with Vans has been reprised! It’s the return of Pendleton Original Surf Plaid–a pattern made famous when the Beach Boys wore these shirts on their Surfer Girl album–in two styles that pay homage to the legendary shoe company’s earliest days.
From Vans: The Anaheim Factory Authentic 44 DX pays tribute to our first Vans factory in Anaheim, California, by borrowing details from the original Authentic and offering modernized comfort with upgraded Ortholite® sockliners. This iconic lace-up shoe also includes throwback details like the original style number, higher glossed foxing tape, and cotton laces, and features classic Pendleton plaid uppers to complete the look.
ANAHEIM FACTORY SK8-HI 38 DX
From Vans: The Anaheim Factory Sk8-Hi 38 DX pays tribute to our first Vans factory in Anaheim, California by borrowing details from the original Sk8-Hi and offering modernized comfort with upgraded Ortholite® sockliners. This legendary high top shoe also includes throwback details like the original style number, higher glossed foxing tape, and cotton laces. Sturdy suede and classic Pendleton plaid uppers complete the iconic look.
Throwback to an even earlier collab
Back in the 1970s, when Pendleton had a store in the Disneyland Resort (which was just Disneyland back then) Vans and Pendleton offered Vans sneakers made with pendleton plaids. We have a pair of those in our archives, and until recently they were part of our heritage Hallway display. Here are a few views of those sneakers,
The second colorways of the 2021 sneakers are made in the same Royal Stewart tartan!
So whether you choose the Original Surf Plaid, or the Red Royal Stewart Tartan, you’re throwing it back. Way back.
Here are a few more views of the original sneakers, so you can appreciate all those retro details.
To read more about our history with Disneyland, click here:
We’re always excited about our Pendleton Eco-Wise Wool offerings; throws and bed blankets that pass strict standards of sustainability and environmental stewardship. We’re especially excited about our newest striped Eco-Wise Wool throws in four new Cabin Stripes.
These throws combine the simple, enduring appeal of stripes with the heathered yarns that make our Yakima Camp blankets so popular. Our goal with the Cabin Stripes was to create a palette that ranged from cool neutrals to warm earth tones that will work in sophisticated living rooms, comfy lounges, cabins, lofts, and campers. We want this throw to go anywhere!
Which one is your favorite?
A Little History
Striped blankets in heathered wool have a long history that stretches back to the ombre-striped bedrolls use by cattle hands and shepherds in the American West. During the day, they were tightly rolled and tied to the saddle, and at night they were unrolled for a night’s rest under the stars.
Made in American with naturally renewable wool, each Eco-Wise throw is machine washable, and will hold its color through every wash. You might not be unrolling yours by the campfire at night after a long day on the trail. But maybe you’ll drape one over your shoulders on a summer night when the temperature drops.
Here are some strategies to prolong the life of your Pendleton wool garments and blankets.
CLEAN BEFORE STORAGE – Safely clean all spills and residues from wool blankets and wool garments before putting them away for the summer.
SUMMER OUTINGS – Taking stored garments or blankets outside every few months for shaking, brushing, and exposure to sunlight will prevent damage!
COLLECTOR STRATEGIES – Store blankets in plastic airtight boxes and bags that seal completely. Air out, shake and refold your treasures every few months.
REPEL – Cedar heartwood and chemical products repel moths, but don’t fully protect against damage. Follow the above steps to keep woolen goods clean, safe, and lasting for generations.
BLANKET CARE – CAN A WOOL BLANKET BE WASHED?
No. Washing will shrink the blanket and ruin it. Pendleton’s traditional wool blankets should only be dry-cleaned.
The exception is the washable Pendleton Eco-Wise Wool® bedding line. These blankets and throws have been woven and treated to be washable: refer to the care instructions on the blanket.
HOW SHOULD WOOL CLOTHING BE CLEANED?
First, refer to the care instructions! if a garment is dry-clean only, then follow that direction and have it dry cleaned. Dry cleaning once a season will keep wool garments fresh.
To freshen a wrinkled wool garment, hang it in a steamy bathroom. Wool is naturally odor-releasing and anti-microbial.
If the garment is labeled as washable, we recommend hand-washing with these steps:
Treat small stains by rinsing with cold water or seltzer and blotting dry with a clean cloth.
If the garment is labeled “hand wash,” use specially formulated mild soap and wash by hand.
Keep agitation to a minimum, as it can cause the scales of wool fibers to knit together in a process called “felting.” This cannot be undone!
After hand washing, gently roll the garment in a towel. You might want to do this several times, with a fresh towel for each turn.
For a knitted garment (sweater or scarf or shawl), lay the knitted garment out in the shape you want it to have after it dries. This is called “blocking.” A drying screen is a nice option for allowing both sides of a sweater to dry.
For a woven garment, lay it on a flat surface to dry.
Always avoid direct sunlight on a damp wool item, and always avoid direct heat.
AREN’T ALL PENDLETON WOOL SHIRTS WASHABLE?
No, they are not! Many Umatilla Wool shirts are, indeed, washable, but Sir Pendleton shirts are dry clean only. Refer to the care tags for any Pendleton wool shirt to determine the best way to clean it.
Pendleton’s washable wool shirts are made with a fabric that has been treated with a special process to seal the scales of wool fiber. These fabrics are clearly labeled as washable, and once washed, should not be dry cleaned.
If you would rather dry clean a washable wool shirt, it should not be washed after. Dry cleaning removes the washable finish. Always choose one method and stick with it.
REMEMBER WOOL’S ENEMIES
Bleach and Detergent – A little bleach causes wool fiber to stiffen and discolor permanently. A lot of bleach will dissolve wool fiber. The alkalis in soaps and detergents remove wool’s luster, strength and softness.
Moths – The best prevention against moth damage is regular use. When not in use, periodically shake or brush items, and re-fold or hang. Keep closets and storage areas swept, making sure to inspect for dead moths and larva casings. Sunlight is another helpful tool against moths—sun blankets now and then to kill any missed eggs.
High Heat and Shrinkage – Exposure to high, direct heat will damage wool fabric.
ENJOY YOUR WOOL
Caring for wool correctly can give you generations of use and wear. And speaking of generations, Please note: If you have purchased a vintage Pendleton wool garment that does not have care tags, we recommend that you dry clean these items. And send us photos!
These USA-made wool blankets are part of our Preservation Series, a unique collection that recreates historic weavings from across the Americas. Pendleton designers collaborate with museum curators and private collectors to select noteworthy work, establish provenance, and attribute historical textiles to the original weavers when possible. The descriptions of dyes, materials, sizes and age are drawn from curator notes on the original weavings. Each wool blanket is expertly dyed, woven and hand-finished in our American mills.
A portion of sales from each blanket helps fund Native American art and education programming and outreach at the Fort Lewis College Foundation and the Center for Southwest Studies.
Please note: many of the descriptions below refer to the curator notes on the original weavings. Pendleton’s versions are made of 82% wool/18% cotton, and are 64″ x 80″ unless otherwise noted.
PS01 – Early Navajo (Diné) Sarape, 1800-1850
This very early weaving contemporary with the Ute-style First Phase Chief blanket. This unusual early sarape combined the simple striped and terraced stepped design elements in use at the time without incorporating red bayeta yarns. Woven of indigo-dyed blue, indigo with vegetal-dyed green, and natural white hand-spun churro wool yarns. The color scheme suggests a Rio Grande Valley influence. Based on an original weaving in The Durango Collection® (DC-NC-43), Center of Southwest Studies Collection #2000:03007
This design is the first in the Preservation Series to be offered as a bedding collection in multiple sizes. Choices are Twin (or robe), Queen, and King, with matching standard-sized shams offered as well. These blankets are completely made in the USA of virgin wool on a cotton warp.
These weavings are referred to as child’s blankets because of their small size, complex patterning, and tight weave. This blanket is a wonderful example of the late Classic Period, and incorporates Spider Woman crosses in the design. The variation in the red color comes from red trade cloth that weavers unraveled and respun. Other colors are handspun gray and white wool and vegetal-and-indigo-dyed yarns. Based on an original weaving in The Durango Collection® (DC-NC-51), Center of Southwest Studies Collection #2000.03007
Though the original weaving on which we’ve based this blanket is referred to as a “child-size blanket,” the Pendleton version is woven in our traditional robe size of 64″ x 80″. The crosses represent Spider Woman, a powerful teacher and benefactor in Navajo legends who taught the art of weaving to the Dine/Navajo people. Her traditional home is atop the Spider Rock formation in the Canyon de Chelly National Monument.
This unusual early striped Zuni blanket incorporates design elements found in Spanish-American weavings from the Rio Grande Valley in New Mexico. A combination of simple bands with central diamond and stepped designs was woven of handspun natural gray, dyed greens, indigo-dyed blue, plied commercial yarns, and red “Bayeta” wool. This design is based on an original weaving in The Durango Collection®, Center of Southwest Studies Collection.
Bayeta is a red woolen flannel that has been raveled and respun. According to the Donald Ellis Museum website:
The term “bayeta” refers to bolts of machine-woven red flannel. Bayeta also refers to red yarns raveled from bolts of red flannel. By 1830, Navajo weavers were accomplished at dying handspun yarns with indigo but lacked the ability to dye handspun yarns with cochineal, which produced a deep red color in woolen yarns. The weavers’ only sources of red yarns were the yarns they raveled from bolts of red flannel imported either from England or Spain. Known among the Navajo and the Spanish as “baize” or “bayeta,” and among Anglo- Americans as “red stroud” or “red trade cloth,” red flannel was used for garment insulation by Anglo- American and Spanish-American settlers.
You can read more of that museum’s fascinating history of Bayeta yarn here: Donald Ellis Museum
Here at Pendleton, we have had the honor of partnering with The American Indian College Fund for more than two decades. In that time our scholarship program has raised more than $1.6 million dollars for scholarships to tribal colleges. Through this scholarship program, recipients are able to cover most of their yearly tuition and books. Our commitment is strong and ongoing, and recognized in the following letter from the President and CEO, American Indian College Fund, Cheryl Crazy Bull.
Pendleton’s American Indian College Fund Endowed Scholarship Exceeds $1 Million
The American Indian College Fund and Pendleton Woolen Mills have enjoyed a relationship for more than 20 years. Our collaboration has made Native people more visible by introducing the public to beautiful blanket creations that are reflective of Native cultures and histories through its American Indian College Fund blanket collection, which also includes tribal college student-designed blankets and blankets from the Nike N7 collection. As part of its relationship with the College Fund, Pendleton created an endowed scholarship to support Native higher education which, as of this writing, has exceeded $1 million. We are delighted that Pendleton has committed to ensuring that Native people have access to a higher education. We know this endowed scholarship will continue to grow and support Native students in their educations for generations to come.
Our relationship started with blankets. Pendleton offers blankets in stunning designs and colors with meaningful stories inspired by Native people from across the nation in the American Indian College Fund collection. Pendleton blankets are cherished by families for generations for their quality, designs, and stories—and while creating greater visibility of Native people, the line also creates awareness of the American Indian College Fund’s mission to invest in Native students and tribal college education to transform lives and communities.
Today 14.5% of American Indians and Alaska Natives (AIAN) have a college degree—half that of other groups (35%), according to the U.S. Census. At the American Indian College Fund, we know that education is the answer to creating vibrant Native communities and are committed to closing that gap through scholarship support and programs to support Native students’ academic success and career achievement. And thanks to the longtime support of Pendleton, 1,250 American Indian and Alaska Native students have received scholarship support for higher education since 2003.
As we celebrate the $1 million milestone of Pendleton’s endowed scholarship, we know this is not an ending but a beginning. We are blessed to have had the friendship and financial support of Pendleton for more than 20 years and we look forward to seeing how the seeds they have planted will blossom as we continue to work together to help Native students achieve their dreams.
Cheryl Crazy Bull
President and CEO, American Indian College Fund
How to Contribute
If you’d like to support the College Fund, you can do that through direct donation.
If you’re interested in Pendleton’s College Fund blankets you can see our current selection at http://www.pendleton-usa.com – if there is a blanket you are hoping to find that isn’t featured on our website, please contact the Pendleton Home store at 503-535-5444. We will do our best to locate it for you at one of our Pendleton stores.
Ah, the serape. This bold striped blanket reads modern, but it has been around a long time. In fact, a (very) vintage Pendleton Serape will be featured in Martin Scorcese’s upcoming Apple Original film, Killers of the Flower Moon. Leonardo DiCaprio plays Ernest Burkhart and Lily Gladstone plays Mollie Burkhart in the film depicting the true story of the Osage tribe murders in the 1920s. In this promo shot (courtesy Apple Original Filsms), Lily Gladstone is wrapped in a vintage Pendleton fringed shawl serape, provided to the film by our friend and vintage blanket expert Barry Friedman.
The serape’s roots are in the Mexican weaving tradition, but it is now common to both Spanish and Native American textiles. Here’s a photo of a Native family in a historic Babbitt Brothers wagon with a serape peeking over the edge. This was taken in the Southwest, where the Babbitts plied (and still ply) their trade.
Colorful, sturdy and functional, this blanket shawl was part of life in the traditional Mexican home. It could serve as clothing, bedding, and shelter. The serape is known by many names throughout Mexico, including chamarro, cobiga, and gaban. It can be woven of a variety of materials and patterns but is generally lighter in weight. Different regions use different palettes, from the elegant neutrals of the Mexican highlands to the bold gradients of Coahuila.
Pendleton’s serapes are woven of 82% wool/18% cotton in bands of gradient colors to achieve that beautiful eye-popping dimensional effect. This is your perfect spring and summer blanket, just waiting to be invited along wherever you go. And this year we have a new design in Aqua.
Portland is a city divided by a river, and united by bridges. Because the Willamette River divides our city neatly into East and West, and because there are wonderful places to visit on each side, a Portlander spends a lot of time traveling these bridges by foot, by bicycle, and by car. You learn each bridge by heart; how to get on it, how not to get on it, where it will take you, and the particular challenges of crossing it.
If you’re driving, the grids of the Hawthorne pull your car from side to side until you learn the trick of speeding up, rather than slowing down. The soaring upper deck of the Marquam, with its spectacular views of downtown, isn’t a place to sightsee, thanks to its hectic lane merges. The lower deck offers the most beautiful views of Waterfront Park in the city, especially during the Rose Festival. Whether or not you like to go to the Fun Center, you can’t help but be charmed by the lights of this huge carnival as you head west.
The Gothic splendor of the St. John’s Bridge, designed by famed engineer and polymath David B. Steinman, is the most majestic of Portland’s bridges. But the dramatic arches of the Fremont Bridge certainly give it a run, as far as dramatic beauty. At the other end of the Willamette River’s path through Portland, the Sellwood Bridge, rebuilt in 2016, was always Portland’s most controversial bridge. It was built in a hurry in 1925, and eventually deemed unsafe for bus and truck traffic. The new Sellwood bridge is broader, safer, and friendlier for pedestrians and cyclists.
Fun fact: The twelve bridges that span the Willamette are all different types of bridge. You can read the full list–and learn about their construction–on Wikipedia: Portland Bridges
2021 is a perfect year to celebrate building bridges, isn’t it? Here is Pendleton’s beautiful new “Bridge City” blanket, available now at pendleton-usa.com.
A dozen bridges span the Willamette River in Portland, Oregon. Each bridge is a different type of bridge. The oldest, the Hawthorne Bridge, is the oldest vertical-lift bridge operating in the USA. The newest, Tilikum Crossing, is named for Native Americans who have always lived along the Willamette. In this breathtaking new blanket, a sunrise behind Mt. Hood lights the St. Johns Bridge (suspension), the Fremont Bridge (tied-arch), and the Steel Bridge (lift-span) as they work with nine others to join the Portland’s east and west sides.Above them rises Mt. Hood, a silent, sleeping volcano that keeps watch over “Bridge City.”
It’s Earth Day, when we stop to honor the planet on which we all live. Hopefully we are looking for ways to honor Earth every day of the year. One of the ways we can do that is by making sustainable, renewable choices about what we buy.
What makes a fiber “natural”?
The definition is simple; Natural fibers are produced by plants and animals without human intervention. Flax is a flowering plant that produces oil and also produces fibers that can be used for spinning and weaving linen. Cotton and hemp are two more natural plant fibers used in cloth production.
Sheep are thought to be the oldest living fiber-producing animals, but they are not alone. Goats (cashmere) and rabbits (angora) also naturally produce fibers used for spinning and weaving.
The case for wool
Wool is produced year- round and worldwide by an estimated one billion sheep. All over the planet, these sturdy animals grow their wool crop from a simple diet of water, grass, and sunshine. A sheep produces a new fleece each year. It is shorn, and returned to pasture. This makes wool a completely renewable natural fiber.
What is wool made of?
Grass, water and sunshine, of course! But technically, wool is made of keratin, a protein produced by the hair follicles of all mammals. According to Wikipedia, “[Keratin] is the key structural material making up scales, hair, nails, feathers, horns, claws, hooves, calluses, and the outer layer of skin among vertebrates.”
The finest micron width of merino wool fiber is made of the same material as a horse’s hoof. Yes, that’s remarkable.
Natural fibers are renewable; they grow and regrow on their own. Unlike synthetic fibers, which are usually made from petroleum, they renew themselves. As natural fibers, they also have life cycles, unlike synthetic materials. Wool’s lifecycle is a long one. Just ask the Pendleton customers who have inherited wool garments and blankets from their parents and grandparents.
When the end finally does arrive for a wool garment or blanket, there is still plenty of use to be had, because wool is the most reusable and recyclable fiber on Earth. It can be recycled or upcycled as textiles for clothing, or broken down into padding for upholstery and carpets. Recycled wool is also used to insulate for sound and natural fire resistance.
The very end
When the recycling stage of wool’s life is over, wool biodegrades fully. In fact, our Pendleton Eco-Wise wool is so manufactured with such care, it qualifies as a biological nutrient at the end of its life cycle. So when you’re thinking about what to wear, think about the impact your choice will have on the planet…not just on Earth Day, but every day.
Our friends in Japan shared these beautiful photos from Hotel Unwind in Sapporo, Japan. Their rustic-luxe guest rooms feature Pendleton blankets. Travel is still a dream for many of us right now, but we thought our readers would enjoy dreaming about these gorgeous rooms.
Native Americans have practiced astronomy since ancient times to predict the arrival of the brightest stars. In Wyoming and Canada, mysterious medicine wheels have been found that track the rising of Aldebaran, Rigel, and Sirius. In the Central Plains, the Pawnee people honored the Pleiades Cluster and believed the Pole star was a protective chief who shone highest in the night sky. Their villages were planned with an eye toward astronomy, dedicating one corner of their village to the Evening Star.
First woven in the 1920s, this USA-made wool blanket has been one of our most popular designs ever since. Chief Joseph led the Nez Perce tribe native to northeastern Oregon in the late 1800s. Widely admired for protecting his people and speaking the truth, he is honored with this design, symbolizing bravery. Bold arrowheads represent the chief’s courage, strength and integrity.
Shifting dunes of shining white crystal rise from the Tularosa Basin at New Mexico’s White Sands National Monument. Erosion from the surrounding mountains constantly replenishes the world’s largest gypsum dunefield, encompassing 275 square miles. During the day, the dunes shine white against the blue sky. At sunset, the sands glow with vibrant hues of twilight, while desert flora—yucca, cholla, rice grass and more – reach toward the last rays of the setting sun.
You’ll see more Pendleton products in the spa, and on the hotel staff.